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NYC: The Modern (⭐️⭐️)

Writer's picture: Top of Food ChainTop of Food Chain

Updated: Dec 30, 2022


Eggs on Eggs on Eggs

The egg sauce and egg itself were very rich, but the dill brought freshness and the flavor worked so well in this dish. The caviar was very high quality and brought a brininess and popping texture to contrast with the rest of the dish. The airiness and crisp of the brioche complemented the richness of the sauce so well, and the extra brioche was much needed. The pickled onions also added a bit of acid. A truly standout dish. 10/10

Bread Service

The hot bread was fresh from the oven and pulls apart very nicely. The outside has a slight crunch which gives away to a soft, fluffy, but not overly airy interior. Therefore, it had a stretchy interior and pleasant texture. The inside had a butteriness and sweetness by itself, so the butter was not even necessary. However, the butter was very creamy and quite nice. The butter was very soft, which made it a little hard to pick up. 10/10

Hop

A great accompaniment throughout the menu. The bitterness and acidity helped wash down some of the heaviness of a tasting menu, helping the menu not feel too large while eating. It was missing sweetness though. 8/10

Tagliatelle with Black Truffle

The truffle was truly wonderful. The aroma when being shaved tableside was so earthy and potent while the taste was mild but also there. The pasta accompanied the truffle well, but is quite simple. However, the simplicity of the pasta allowed the truffle to shine through while giving it a great background of umami and creaminess. 10/10

Cured Hiramasa

This was a pleasantly sour and acidic dish after the heavier bread service. It was light but extremely flavorful. The basil was a nice addition for some varied texture and fresh flavor. The fish itself was soft and absorbed the flavor well. It was a great starter. 10/10

Lobster with Chive Sabayon

The sabayon‘s sourness would in theory work well with the lobster and the mushroom, but it overpowered the flavors. The lobster was very plump and juicy, and the sauce coated it well. Texturally the dish was great but flavor-wise it could be better. 8/10

Aged Duck with Sour Cherry and Purple Mustard

The dish was visually stunning and so delicious. The flavors and textures all worked together so well, with the crispy duck’s slight pleasant gaminess and aged flavor being offset the sour cherry’s sweetness. The mustard added a tangy flavor that brought out the sweetness of the cherry and cut some of the cattiness of the duck. The duck sauce was so rich and had such a potent flavor. The duck was so tender and the skin‘s crispiness was a sharp contrast. The complexity of flavors and textures made this a remarkable dish. 10/10

Beef with Maitakes, Lettuce, and Smoked Potato

The beef was so tender and fatty. It is as good as any A5 wagyu. The sauce was strong and flavorful. The potatoes were a bit too soft and wasn’t fluffy enough. It seemed more like a sauce rather than potatoes. However, it did work well as a sauce and contributed creaminess to the beef. The maitakes were way too salty though. Overall still a great dish because of the beef. 9/10

Salmon with Zucchini and Tomatoes

The salmon had great crispy skin, but the inside was rather rare. However, the salmon was so tender and there was no need to even chew. Unlike some other rare fish, there were no hard-to-chew fibers. The flavor of the salmon was a bit fishy, but the vegetables and sauce helped add freshness and sweetness to counteract it. The zucchinis still had a pleasant texture and wasn’t too soft. A very well executed and thought out dish. 10/10

Matcha Vacherin with Jasmine Ice Cream

The outside shell with puffed rice was wonderfully airy and crunchy. The inside filling had a nice Matcha flavor and the puffed rice really made the texture interesting. The ice cream added a nice aroma and scent while pairing nicely with the more crunchy dessert. 10/10

Chocolate Torte with Almond Praline

The textural contrast in the torte was amazing—the creamy mousse on the top leading into a crispy praline bottom. The ice cream had interesting notes of rum. The disk on top of the ice cream was very crispy and airy. The dish overall was so complex in flavor and varied in texture. 10/10

Honeycomb Cake with Passion Fruit Sorbet

The presentation was amazing, but the cake itself was just ok. The sorbet’s sourness overpowered the too dish and made the rest of the elements unnoticeable. Definitely a disappointment from this beautiful of a dish. 5/10


Final review: A great lunch with, for the most part, delicious and beautiful dishes. The Eggs on Eggs on Eggs, bread, truffle, duck, and desserts were wow moments, but the appetizers seemed a bit safe while tasting nice. The entrees were the best part of the meal, with each one being unique and delicious. Unfortunately, one of the desserts fell very short. In all, a great restaurant and well worth the money. 10/10

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